I sometimes despair of wine writers in the national press – not that I have any reason to suspect their objectivity or judgement about the wines they review – it is just that so often they feature only wines from the major supermarkets and/or chains. And I know that these larger outlets can offer some decent wines at keen prices – but of neccessity they seek out wineries which produce sufficient quantities for their nationwide networks and will have a tendency to seek out those wines which will have the widest appeal. A worthy exception to this very generalised criticism is Anthony Rose in the Independent.
For example, this Saturday’s piece (10 April 2010) was a really interesting and well-researched article Not forgetting Rosso Conero, the much-improved local red, Le Marche is basically about verdicchio, the white grape variety grown inland of Ancona around Jesi and Matelica. Verdicchio is not just a high-quality grape when it’s handled well, but it’s also immensely versatile.
Of an impressive number of wines he describes, including some from the supermarkets/chains he also features wines from smaller specialist retailers such as a Belisario 2008 Verdicchio di Matelica “Vigneti del Cerro” offered by Shills of Station Streetin Cockermouth, Cumbria.
Shills, Station Street or Cockermouth may not be regular destinations for many wine lovers, but like many small merchants they have a well-chosen interesting list of wines and an impressive selection of foodstuffs – especially cheese and chocolate. No online ordering on offer, but could be worth a visit to browse their shelves which carry over 85 wines from all over the world.
Wendy has been involved with professional cookery since 1975 when she was cooking for small private house parties in Surrey. She also found her way to the beautiful island of Menorca in 1976 and spent 18 months cooking in small restaurants and crewing on yachts. Nick started in bar work at about the same time but with a background in agriculture, mainly in dairying, the link with cheese is easy to see. Through our love of travel, and interest in foods and wines we have always searched out local markets and tried our hardest to get the real local flavours. Believe me, we have drunk some seriously dubious hooch in some very dodgy places – but hey! We started on our business career at the Cumbria Hotel in Keswick and, some three years after that, moved to the Ivy House Hotel in Braithwaite also near Keswick. This lead us both further and further into good food and helped us understand the world of wine. After a some time spent on the Rungis Market in Paris Nick has been working with Grapevine the Wine Company at Embleton as a Wine Consultant.
UK Delivery = not given
Tastings offered
Shills of Station Street, 11 Station Street, Cockermouth, Cumbria CA13 9QW t:01900 826427
